There are many reasons people begin surfing. Physical fitness, love of the ocean, having fun, and being cool are some of the reasons people try out this sport. No matter the reason though, the important thing to remember is that surfing is above all else, a fun way to enjoy life.
For many, once they begin surfing, it becomes life changing. They become addicted to it and their lives revolve around the sport and ocean life. Some have even been lucky enough to create careers out of this sport whether it’s becoming a pro surfer, a surf magazine/website editor, or even a surf photographer.
Surfing is vastly different from most other sports. The “court” (or ocean) is never the same. In fact it can vary greatly from one hour to the next – no two waves are alike. Surfing is also one of the only sports that follows the idea of “paradise”. Most people picture paradise as an island with palm trees and an ocean – i.e., Hawaii. Thus surfers tend to live in places where the rest of the world vacations. While it can be great for surfers to live in paradise, this also means that it can come with a high cost of living. If you do not believe this check on some real estate on Oahu’s North Shore where Pipeline and Waimea bay are located. But these ideas of paradise and beauty are also something that draw surfers to the sport. There is nothing better than watching the sunrise or sunset and being the ocean around your friends (or alone), at peace, listening to seagulls and waves, and riding the perfect waves. It’s not always this glamorous, but when it is, sitting back smelling the salt air doesn’t get any better.
If you have not surfed, then I encourage you to try. Like anything else, it’s not for everyone. Surfing takes time and dedication to become proficient. As you will read in this guide, it’s not something you will learn in a week but something that takes a lifetime to master.